ARGE Alpin Gesäuse

The Gesäuse is an alpine climbing area with a long history, a diverse ski touring destination and, at the same time, an outstanding nature conservation area. These qualities form the foundation of the region – both as a tourism destination and as a place to live.

And it is not just the Gesäuse. The entire Ennstal Alps have a distinctly “wild” character: rugged nature, steep rock faces, challenging climbs with long approaches and very little infrastructure.

Exploring the mountains of the Ennstal Alps requires a certain degree of humility, personal responsibility, courage, skill and fitness. Due to the limited space along the River Enns and the lack of large-scale infrastructure, mass tourism is hardly an option here. Nevertheless, the region is attracting more and more visitors. One reason may well be the steadily growing number of tour descriptions published online, which are difficult to control and continue to drive visitor numbers upwards.

Part of the Gesäuse is protected as a national park. Over the past two decades, numerous successful visitor management measures have been implemented here. In the long term, it makes sense to develop practical, easy-to-understand strategies together throughout the entire region. This is something we are continuously working on.

Who we are

ARGE Alpin Gesäuse does not see itself as an operational body for implementing management measures. Instead, it serves as a platform for dialogue between institutions and key stakeholders facing similar conflicts of interest – a kind of “ethics committee”, so to speak.

It provides guidelines for climbing and winter sports in the Ennstal Alps. The aim is to establish a shared ethical approach as well as visitor management measures that are supported and communicated by all members of ARGE alpin Gesäuse.

The group brings together regional alpine expertise – including Alpine Clubs, Friends of Nature associations, mountain rescue organisations, local mountain guides and experts with extensive knowledge of the area – as well as institutions and landowners with a particular interest in the natural environment: Gesäuse National Park, Styrian Eisenwurzen Nature and Geopark, Styrian State Forests, Admont Abbey, Franz Hohenberg Forestry Estate and the Gesäuse Tourism Association.

This means everyone understands the objectives and considerations of the other stakeholders, making it considerably easier to pursue a common approach.

Ultimately, it is about working together – and finding a good balance.

Ethical guidelines

The following sections summarise the most important topics and the approach we aim to follow in the Ennstal Alps with regard to ecology and responsible behaviour.
More detailed information on alpine climbing can also be found in the local climbing guide “Kletterführer Gesäuse”, from page 656 onwards.

Alpine climbing

More than 1,000 climbing routes are known on the rock faces of the Gesäuse, some of which rise up to 800 metres.

In many areas of the Alps – both within and outside protected areas – uncontrolled route renovations, the installation and removal of bolts, and disputes about climbing styles and safety have become an issue. A coordinated approach is intended to prevent this kind of development in the Gesäuse.

The challenge is to build bridges between different interests. Nature conservation, safety and the desire to preserve opportunities for genuine adventure for future generations all need to be taken into account. The aim is to maintain the existing alpine character of the Gesäuse.

The approaches to the various climbing areas of the Hochtor Group and Buchstein massif are maintained by Gesäuse National Park with ecological visitor management in mind. The trails can be found, but they are not marked hiking trails in the conventional sense. They remain natural paths. Additional approach trails are neither necessary nor planned.
Some approaches to and exits from rock faces feature fixed cables. Any maintenance work must be coordinated with ARGE alpin Gesäuse on a case-by-case basis and, within the national park, with Gesäuse National Park.
Existing climbing exclusion zones designated under Natura 2000 must be marked in climbing topos and photographs of the rock faces. Where possible, corresponding information should also be provided on site. At present, permanent climbing restrictions apply to parts of the north face of the Zinödl and at Himbeerstein.
If breeding birds are confirmed to be present on an alpine climbing route, the area around the route will be closed during the sensitive breeding period.
Many alpine climbing routes have been renovated over recent decades. Great care has been taken to preserve their original character – and ultimately their sense of adventure. On many routes, climbers will only find well-equipped belay stations, while most intermediate protection must be placed independently. This renovation style is intended to avoid giving the impression that the walls and routes have the character of a sport climbing crag, which could lead climbers to underestimate their length and difficulty.
This approach should also be maintained in any future renovation work. Only high-quality anchors have been used to provide sustainable long-term safety. This standard should also apply to future projects.
Certain routes of particular importance to alpine climbing history are to be preserved as “alpine monuments”, remaining free of bolts in the future. A corresponding list of these routes has been compiled.
There are also defined sections of rock where no bolts are to be installed. These areas are intended to preserve space dedicated to adventure and to respect climbing styles that differ from the majority approach.
First ascents should be carried out “by fair means”, climbing from the bottom up and leading the route. This is in keeping with the principles of personal development and self-reliance. Creating or modifying handholds or footholds is taboo.

Sport climbing areas close to the valley

Several sport climbing areas have developed over the decades in the valley around Johnsbach. The most rewarding of these have been renovated and are now officially designated climbing areas: “Alter Klettergarten”, “Gsengplatte”, “Gsengstein” and “Tunnel”.

These equipped sport climbing areas provide a good alternative when the weather is unstable. They are also ideal training grounds and preparation for alpine climbing.

Existing sport climbing areas close to the valley may be maintained and their route potential further developed following prior consultation.
Vegetation may be removed from the rock on existing climbing routes. Loose stones may also be removed. However, this work should always be carried out with care and good judgement.
The development of new sport climbing areas close to the valley is not planned.
If breeding birds or other sensitive species are confirmed to be present in a sport climbing area close to the valley, the entire area or part of it may be temporarily closed during the sensitive period.

Via ferratas

The Ennstal Alps offer a good selection of via ferratas. Most involve a long approach and therefore require an appropriate level of fitness. There are also a small number of shorter alternatives in the valley.

Any development of new via ferratas must be coordinated with ARGE alpin Gesäuse. Within Gesäuse National Park, new via ferratas are generally not planned.

Easy climbing routes and difficult hiking trails

Classic easy climbing routes such as the Peternpfad, the Gesäuse traverse, the Haller Mauern traverse or the traverse from Kleiner Buchstein to Großer Buchstein via the “Schafzähne” will remain climbing routes and will not be developed into via ferratas with fixed cables. Installing fixed ropes – whether steel cables or synthetic ropes – without prior consultation is not desired and is generally prohibited within Gesäuse National Park.
Marked alpine hiking trails should likewise not be converted into or subsequently equipped as protected routes with fixed cables. Examples include the normal routes to Admonter Reichenstein, Großer Ödstein and Kleiner Buchstein.

Ski touring and snowshoeing

Winter sports enthusiasts are guests in the habitat of wild animals. We enjoy moving through untouched nature, but in doing so we also take responsibility for the animals that live there.

During winter, wildlife operates at the limits of its energy reserves. Every disturbance can become a serious threat. Grouse, for example, survive the winter by conserving energy – sheltering in snow burrows and limiting their activity. Every disturbance forces them to flee and expend valuable energy. Other wild animals face similar challenges.

Throughout the region, popular ski touring destinations overlap with valuable wildlife habitats. Visitor management concepts define clear zones and recommended routes. This allows wildlife refuges to remain undisturbed while ski tourers can still reach their chosen summits – using designated routes that are also easier to follow.

There are officially designated restricted areas, closely associated with winter enclosures for red deer. These areas are clearly signposted and can also be viewed online. The situation is more complex when it comes to sensitive habitats that are biologically important. Decisions here are based partly on observations by local hunting communities and partly on many years of monitoring and detailed data collected by Gesäuse National Park.
The challenge is to define appropriate forest and wildlife protection zones while maintaining ski touring routes with as few restrictions as possible.

Successful coexistence between nature conservation and winter sports depends on voluntarily respecting designated forest and wildlife protection zones. These zones are not defined arbitrarily. They are carefully considered and provide wildlife with undisturbed refuges during the challenging winter months.
Ski tours and snowshoe hikes should follow the designated routes.
Please avoid entering mountain forests at dusk and after dark during winter.