From the Mödlinger Hütte (Tel. +43 680 2057139) in the midst of the Gesäuse mountains, the trail first leads us steadily downhill in switchbacks via the Huberalm to the mountaineering village of Johnsbach (Tourist Information Tel. +43 3613 2116010). The Gesäuse, often referred to as the university of climbing, actually offers long and difficult climbing routes in mostly the best rock. Especially the south side with the center Johnsbach offers excellent rock routes. So it is not surprising that the small village has become a homey center for climbers and ski tourers.
Via the Schattseitenweg along the Johnsbach we reach the Kölblwirt (Tel. +43 3611 216), one of the most popular hiking and ski touring hosts in the Gesäuse. From here, another ascent into the Gesäuse mountains awaits us. In the face of the Hochtor group, we hike impressed by the panorama and the southern walls of the Großer Ödstein and the Hochtor past the Wolfbauern waterfall and over the Untere and Obere Koderalm to a junction at the Gamsbrunn, a spring on the western slope of the Zinödl. Today it is diverted and supplies the Heßhütte as well as the Stadelalm with the best drinking water. Here we keep to the left and after a few hundred meters we reach the Heßhütte (Tel. +43 664 4308060), our today's stage destination on the hiking route "From Glacier to Wine". The Ennseck, on which the Heßhütte stands, used to be called the Hochtor, which means "a high crossing". For centuries, cattle were driven to the high alpine pastures over this mountain pass. The Hochtor, at 2,369 m the highest peak in the Gesäuse, got its name from this passage. Before its ascent, the striking mountain massif was called Hochtorfelsen. A lot of mountain history, into which we dive even deeper on the next stage to Radmer, because here the copper mine with the smallest tunnel railroad in Austria awaits us. Alternatively, there is also an alpine variant to take to Radmer, whereby the descent into the idyllically situated village over high boulders is challenging.